Beyond the "Recta": Unearthing Cholula's Ancient and Colonial Layers

-

Cholula is renowned not only for its numerous churches and impressive archaeological pyramid site but also for the distinctive "Recta a Cholula." This vibrant stretch is a popular nightlife area, especially among university students.

Despite its proximity to Puebla City and my relatively close hometown, I had never actually visited the pyramid site until about 15 years ago. Our school, surprisingly, wasn't interested in this particular archaeological marvel. While we took field trips to sites much further away, Cholula simply wasn't a popular destination back then. However, the famous "Recta" was a constant topic of conversation among my classmates, many of whom eagerly anticipated visiting and enjoying it once they began attending Cholula’s nearby universities.



The Background



Cholula occupies a significant position in Mexican history. Strategically located, the city served as a crucial gateway, facilitating communication between diverse peoples. Its local inhabitants, the Cholultecas, were a diverse ethnic group born from this blend of various cultures. Consequently, Cholula became a vibrant exchange hub, a true melting pot, and a sanctuary for many (Gobierno de Cholula).

Its prominent pyramid, known in Nahuatl as Tlachihualtepetl, meaning "man-made mountain," was the largest in Mesoamerica, surpassing the Pyramid of the Sun in Teotihuacan in both size and height (Gobierno de Cholula). In the pre-Hispanic era, no one dared to attack this sanctuary city. It was a sacred site that served as a forum for exchange, a crossroads of cultures, and a center for the dissemination of Toltecáyotl throughout Mesoamerica. Not even the proud Mexica, who led the Triple Alliance between Tenochtitlan, Tetzcoco, and Tlacopan, had plans to subjugate Cholula (Noticonquista).

That is, until the Spanish arrived.


Cholula's history is tragically marked by the infamous massacre of its people carried out by Hernán Cortés. According to Kruell, the brutal massacre at Cholula—perpetrated by Cortés’s troops and his Cempoalan and Tlaxcalan allies—was an unheard-of atrocity. Its impact resonated throughout Mesoamerica, striking fear into the Mexica and their leader, Moctezuma. This event forced them to recognize the necessity of negotiation, as they realized they could not easily defeat an invading force backed by a vast number of indigenous insurgents (Noticonquista).

My First Impression

Setting foot in Cholula for the very first time, accompanied by my brother and one of his American girlfriends, left a strong impression. I was struck by the small city's picturesque and colorful nature, a characteristic emphasized by the sheer number of churches—one on seemingly every corner. This dense presence of churches symbolizes the historical suppression of indigenous religions and the establishment of a new spiritual center. 



Although the pyramid itself is hidden beneath a mountain, visitors can still explore its tunnels. This short tour is highly recommended, as it offers the chance to witness and touch the history of this remarkable, and one of the oldest, ancient temples in Mesoamerica.

The highlight of this archaeological site, for me, is reaching the summit of the pyramid and hill, where you are rewarded with an outstanding view of the Popocatépetl volcano and the quaint, colorful city below.

Although the site isn't vast, I felt a deep sense of honor standing at such a pivotal location in Mexican history—a place where pre-Hispanic culture lies beneath, and colonial New Spanish Baroque stands above.

I've been fortunate enough to revisit this location many times, sharing the experience with countless other visitors. A particularly memorable visit, however, was when my best friends from Slovakia came to see me. Traveling from Mexico City to my hometown, we stopped in Cholula. We explored the tunnels and courtyard, eventually sitting at the summit of the pyramid in awe before reaching the hill where the church, Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios, stands. Unfortunately, the misty, cloudy weather that day prevented my friends from witnessing the spectacular view of the volcanoes. Thankfully, they were able to enjoy the sight of the volcanoes later, during our drive on the highway to my hometown. 



The story of their visit will be retold as part of Puerto Paradox Part II, so please stay tuned!


Works Cited

Gobierno de Cholula. "Acerca de Cholula: Historia." H. Ayuntamiento de San Pedro Cholula, cholula.gob.mx/acerca-de-cholula/historia. Accessed 26 Oct. 2023.

Noticonquista. "La Matanza de Cholula." Noticonquista, UNAM, www.noticonquista.unam.mx/amoxtli/1753/1749. Accessed 26 Oct. 2023.


Explore Cholula:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5PrU3tMxgQ


© 2026 The Dark Rose's Traces. All Rights Reserved. 




























Popular posts from this blog

THE WILD ONE

-
Image
Upon reading the title, many of you might immediately think of Suzi Quatro or Iggy Pop. However, this phrase actually refers to an unusual human form… and a very special dog. I’m definitely a dog person! While I appreciate cats, I’ve never had one as a pet. My soul connects better with dogs. Dogs were a constant in my childhood, loyal companions and protectors. However, it wasn't until I lived in Slovakia that I encountered stray dogs. I became involved with shelters and began adopting. Something I regret in some ways due to how my last adoption turned out (I’ll save that story for another time). Most people romanticize adoption, but it can be incredibly challenging, an unending commitment. It's especially demanding if the animal carries past traumas, disabilities, or illnesses. Despite these difficulties, the profound love and unwavering loyalty of dogs ultimately overshadow all struggles. I believe they are divine beings, incapable of the betrayal and abandonment we flawed hu...
Read more

Paris, the City of Lights

-
Image
Paris, the City of Lights and Second Chances I grew up hearing stories about Paris, yet back then, it wasn't a city that truly captivated me. However, I was constantly bombarded by my prosperous classmates, privileged enough to travel. Their summer vacations were a persistent topic of conversation—a series of tales about who had seen the most renowned sites and explored the most popular monuments. They would boast about strolling down majestic Parisian streets, often claiming to have mastered French in just two weeks—a feat my 15 years as a language teacher has taught me is impossible! Back then, their self-assured remarks left me in awe, as they described dining on an endless supply of croissants and macarons while contemplating Notre Dame and the Eiffel Tower with their affluent families. It's funny how some people's experiences can color your point of view about cultures and places, especially when you're young and inexperienced. Later in my life, I was surrounded by...
Read more

THE '80s

-
Image
Speaking in Synthesizers: Finding a Language in '80s Pop Culture Some of my favorite films, songs, and TV series date back to the '80s. Sometimes, I think that I belong more to Generation X than I do to millennials because I enjoy its music, trends, films, and pop culture. Despite the fact that I became an adolescent during the '90s, I get a melancholic feeling every time I listen to, see, or read anything evoking the '80s. I grew up in Mexico where I was exposed to the English language in limited ways. Nevertheless, being born into a bilingual home, together with the influence of the '80s and '90s technological and musical revolution, acted as a powerful ignition for my language development. Indeed, English didn't just knock on the door, it burst right in. It was during the decade of big hair and bright colors that the English language started to permeate my everyday life with its MTV, series, films, video games, and synthesized songs on the radio. I began ...
Read more