Echoes of Košice

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Saying goodbye always stings. I’ve never met anyone who could bid farewell to a place or person they love without feeling a profound sense of loss. Because that’s what a farewell is, isn't it? Acknowledging that something is gone.



This time, I’m saying goodbye to Košice—a town that has been my second home on the European continent for years.



Returning this time feels different. A quiet sadness haunts me day and night, weighed down by the countdown to my departure and the lingering question of when—or if—I’ll ever return. Deep down, I know I will. But this trip is about closing a chapter that sat open in the back of my mind for the last couple of years. Seeing this place through fresh eyes and under different circumstances has given me a new perspective. The time has finally arrived to offer a temporary farewell to this charming town, which has truly become such a significant part of my life.


In a previous post, I shared the story of my first encounter with Košice 👉  (you can read it here).


Since then, I’ve bounced around different neighborhoods, living with all kinds of flatmates, roommates and, naturally, some great dogs. Some people joke that I know the city better than an actual "Košičan"—and honestly, they might be right! I know the bus routes, trails, streets, hidden gems, and the historic center like the back of my hand.



I’ve spent countless weekends hiking the rolling trails of Bankov, Kavečany, Jahodná, Hrešná, and trekking up to the Vyhliadková veža tower. Beyond the city limits, I’ve explored the gorgeous Zádiel Canyon in Turňa and the massive Spiš Castle. Then, there are the Tatras. My ultimate favorite hike—and a peak I still can't believe I actually summited—was Rysy. The views of the mountain peaks and high-altitude lakes were incredible. Slovakia's nature is absolutely spectacular, and it's a shame so many travelers overlook it.





Right now, I’m soaking up every moment, revisiting the places I know I won’t see for a long time. Košice’s concrete cityscape is uniquely softened by the breathtaking backdrop of lush, rolling hills found in every direction; no matter where you go, nature is right there.


Even in the city center, you are spoiled for choice with beautiful places to stroll—from the vibrant Mestský Park and the tree-lined Moyzesova Avenue to the quiet park by the Sever polyclinic on Komenského. Just on the other side of Gorkého Street, the path along the Hornád River begins, where you can walk for miles alongside locals exercising and walking their dogs.



But when it comes to long bike rides and reflective walks, my absolute favorite spots are Nad Jazerom and Anička. If I had to pick just one, Anička wins hands down. It holds a very special place in my heart; I lived through so many chapters there, and the area is absolutely alive with memories—almost all of them wonderful.


Another incredible fact about Košice for those who don’t know: it hosts the oldest marathon in Europe, founded back in 1924. I’ve personally tackled this historic course four times—completing three half-marathons, and then, for the monumental 100th anniversary, I ran the full marathon alongside my cousin and two of my Mexican running buddies! If you're a runner, you need to add this to your bucket list. It’s incredibly flat, the organization is top-tier, and the local vibe is unmatched. Every single one of my friends and family members who experienced it was thoroughly impressed!



Košice is packed with restaurants, pubs, and venues that I’ve explored and revisited more times than I can count. The scene has a bit of everything: fine dining if you’re looking for an upscale night out and underground after-hours spots where the zombie crowds linger into dawn.


Also, in Anička, there are affordable places where you can make a beer stop and enjoy the sunset hovering above the Vyhliadková veža hill facing the Hornád. Just be aware of tourist traps. I especially have in mind a spot that is at the beginning of Anička which has undergone many changes in management and owners—the place looks nice and quaint, but they tend to rip you off!


Here are some of my favorite spots for meals, drinks, and fun:



Along the Hornád in Anička: Two great casual stops are Občerstvenie SÚDKY and Pub Jedenástka. 


Fine dining and craft beer: Head to OhniskO Fire Dining & Brew Bar on Gorkého Street. (OhniskO)


Traditional Slovak food and beer in the city center: Pivovar Hostinec and Camelot used to be my absolute go-tos. (Hostinec) (Camelot)


International and inclusive hubs: You can't beat Kino Úsmev, Tabačka Kulturfabrik, and Pokhoi. (Kino Úsmev / Tabačka / Pokhoi)


I highly recommend Pivovarský Dvor Corvus. It wasn't my go-to spot before, but the new staff and improved beer selection have made it a favorite. Service is fast, and the beer is good. While it may change again over time, right now, it’s a must-visit. (Corvus)


For underground decor, vibe, and pure chaos: Check out Collosseum Club—it’s cheap, and if you’re a rocker, goth, or punk, you will absolutely adore its decor and spontaneous energy. (Collosseum Club)


I could mention more, but these are among my top picks. Just keep in mind that service and menus can change over time!


Slovakia has amazing food and local products. Personally, I think their bread is unbeatable. I can’t even explain how good the texture and flavor are—it's solid, hearty, and packed with grains. Their dairy is also incredible, especially bryndza (sheep's cheese), which is the star ingredient of bryndzové halušky, Slovakia’s national dish. And let’s not forget kyslá kapusta. It’s similar to sauerkraut and completely trending right now with vegan diets because it’s absolutely packed with nutrients, probiotics and prebiotics!


If you want to uncover the hidden historical gems of Košice, I highly recommend signing up for a walking tour with Milan Kolcun. He is an incredibly experienced local guide who not only brings the city's history to life but will also point you toward the best local spots to eat and drink. His tours are available in Slovak, English, Spanish, and Hungarian—and if you prefer a more tailored experience, you can easily book a private tour.


This is their website: https://potulka.sk/


However, what I will miss most of all are the friends, doggies, and countless acquaintances I’ve made during my time in Košice. I am also going to deeply miss teaching and speaking with my Slovak students. Having taught in several schools here over the years, I can truly say that many of my students were incredibly inspiring and hardworking. I wish nothing but the absolute best for all of these wonderful people in life. Farewell for now, until next time.





So, if you ever find yourself traveling through Central Europe, make sure to give Košice a try. The atmosphere alone is what made me fall hard at first sight. Sure, it’s not a massive capital city, but that means fewer tourists and less crowding than the bigger hotspots. If you’re looking for a destination that is low-key, safe, and full of hidden variety, you should absolutely plan a trip here and give it a shot!


© 2026 The Dark Rose's Traces. All Rights Reserved. 


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